In November of 2022, when China was still enforcing its zero-COVID policies of mass testing, strict lockdowns, and closed borders, it seemed that a return trip might not be possible. Yet, in December of that year the government did an about face. Overnight they dropped testing requirements and isolation policies and announced that China’s borders would re-open to foreigners in March of 2023. New visas would be issued and suspended visas would be reinstated.
One year after the reopening, I dug out my passport and my 10-year tourist visa (in its last year) and headed to China! Four years away was too long. I needed to get back to see for myself how things had changed and to reconnect with friends and former colleagues.
What follows are a few observations from my week in Beijing.
- Even though I have been keenly aware of the immense changes that have taken place in China over the past few years, what I saw and experienced was more familiar to me than different. Beijing is still huge. The buildings are still oversized. The traffic is still bad, as is the pollution, although there were a few gorgeous days while I was there. The surveillance is still pervasive (perhaps even more so). The food is still great. The people are still warm, engaging, and open. Within minutes of stepping out of the airport and into my friends’ car, I felt like I was home. It was so very familiar.
- Beijing is no longer a tourist-friendly city. I had lived in the city in the run-up to and during the 2008 Olympic Games when the slogan “Beijing Welcomes You” adorned almost every surface, and the singing and dancing figurines were everywhere. In many ways it should still be welcoming since so much of the tourist infrastructure that was built for the games is still there and has even been improved.
The main barrier to making it tourist-friendly is that nearly all functions of life in the city are now handled via WeChat, the Chinese super app! Gone are the days of standing on the street corner trying to wave down a taxi—they are all booked through WeChat. Want train tickets? They need to be booked and paid for through WeChat. Want to visit any tourist site (Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, the Great Wall)? Tickets need to be purchased in advance through WeChat. Want to pay for a Beijing duck dinner? Get out WeChat. Want to buy a bottle of water at a 小卖部 (convenience store)? WeChat.
I was able to set up WeChat Pay with my US credit card before I went, and I will admit once I got the hang of it, it was quite convenient. But it is hard to see foreign tourists, especially independent ones, returning to the city in large numbers. For people not already familiar with and users of WeChat, it’s a fairly steep learning curve. - If the future of driving is electric vehicles (and I’m not convinced it is), then China is leading the way. Most of the taxis and private cars I was in were electric, and almost all of them were local Chinese brands.
- While there is no question that the political environment is tighter than in previous years, Chinese Christians are resilient and innovative in seeking to practice their faith within the boundaries set by the state.
- There are still opportunities to serve in China. Universities still want foreign teachers. They are also begging for the return of foreign students. Being a language student on a campus gives one the ability to live and learn alongside Chinese students, and with international students from all over the world as well.
In conclusion, I would say this, especially to those who have been out for a number of years: if you are able and have the opportunity to make a trip to China this year, do it.
Image credit: Joann Pittman.
Joann Pittman
Joann Pittman is Vice President of Partnership and China Engagement and editor of ZGBriefs. Prior to joining ChinaSource, Joann spent 28 years working in China, as an English teacher, language student, program director, and cross-cultural trainer for organizations and businesses engaged in China. She has also taught Chinese at the University …View Full Bio
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